Ukrainian Culinary Journey: A New Restaurant Emerges in Notting Hill
Two years ago, Eugene Korolev was engaged in combat against Russian forces on the front lines in eastern Ukraine. Today, he has launched a restaurant located at the intersection of All Saints Road in Notting Hill, known as Sino.
Sino aims to showcase a narrative about Ukraine that transcends conflict, as highlighted by Korolev’s business partner, Polina Sychova, who states it is “not just about war.”
As the head chef, Korolev merges traditional Ukrainian food culture with modern Western culinary techniques, reinterpreting classic dishes for the London dining scene.
“My personal ambition is to highlight Ukrainian cuisine,” Korolev shares. “I want to demonstrate that Ukrainian food is one-of-a-kind.”
The menu features culinary staples, including chicken Kyiv—enhanced with wild garlic, truffle, and Ukrainian hay-infused mashed potatoes—as well as unique offerings like aubergine tartare and cherry-glazed barbecue catfish, both of which are quite popular in Ukraine.
Sychova emphasizes, “At Sino, we can finally tell the true story of Ukraine, and we intend to do it justice.”
They are one of several new establishments in London focusing on traditional Ukrainian cuisine, following openings like Mriya bistro in Earls Court in 2022 and Tatar Bunar in Shoreditch earlier this month.
With Korolev’s extensive experience in Michelin-starred restaurants across Europe, Sino has the potential to be a standout.
After being a constituent republic of the Soviet Union until 1991, Ukraine’s culinary identity struggled to develop. Korolev remarks, “The USSR stifled creativity. There was little room for imagination or experimentation.”
In a liberated Ukraine, chefs began to reconnect with age-old culinary traditions, adapting them to contemporary palates. Sino reflects this heritage; not only do the dishes celebrate Ukrainian recipes, but the cocktail menu, curated by Ukrainian mixologist Ana Reznik, is inspired by local flavors. Sychova’s decor also honors her country, utilizing native clay and natural materials. The restaurant’s name, Sino, meaning hay, is embodied in a striking, hanging sculpture in the dining area.
Sychova, originally from Kyiv, believes it is essential to present a multifaceted view of her homeland through the restaurant. She states, “It’s crucial not to reduce Ukraine to mere war, victimization, and survival; there is so much more to our culture.”
The ongoing conflict significantly influenced the creation of Sino. Korolev, who had worked in acclaimed restaurants such as Benoit in Paris and Atelier Amaro in Warsaw, enlisted to fight for Ukraine once Russia invaded. Yet, even while serving, he remained connected to his culinary roots.
“During downtime in a trench, I would jot down recipes and ideas,” Korolev recalls. He experimented with local herbs while lying in the fields near Kharkiv to pass the time.
To lift the spirits of his fellow soldiers, he would share visions of the restaurant he planned to establish post-war. “I dreamt of opening a Ukrainian restaurant in London and aspiring to be the best in the world,” he would say. After nearly two years on the front lines, with encouragement from his commanding officer, that dream began to take shape.
His notes and recipes would later develop into a cookbook, and during a tasting, Sychova connected with Korolev as he articulated a vision for Ukrainian cuisine through a fine-dining lens—an approach she resonated with.
Thus, the concept for Sino was born.
Having opened at the end of last month, Sino employs a predominantly Ukrainian kitchen staff, many of whom Korolev worked with prior to the conflict. Sychova emphasizes that it wasn’t merely about assembling a Ukrainian team; it was about uniting individuals who share a common goal to elevate Ukrainian gastronomy.
Both founders dismiss notions of pursuing Michelin stars, but candid discussions about their ambitions suggest otherwise.
“I have gained invaluable insights into life, its essence, and worth,” Korolev reflects on his experiences in the war. He stresses the importance of what truly matters in life. For Sychova, the atmosphere in the kitchen at Sino is calmer compared to other high-pressure restaurant environments, a testament to the perspective they have gained.
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