In his novel Any Human Heart by William Boyd, the protagonist Logan Mountstuart experiences financial hardship that drives him to consume dog food, which he humorously claims is comparable to a curry with rice. In today’s context, this notion of poverty appears outdated, as the quality—and cost—of my dog’s food surpasses my own meals. Recently, my chocolate Labrador, Bear, enjoyed a meal consisting of beef, beef offal, vegetables, berries, kelp, and olive oil, all included in his premium raw nutrition plan subscription costing £60 a month. Meanwhile, I had a steak bake from a fast-food outlet, all while hustling to maintain Bear’s lavish lifestyle of doggie ice cream and gourmet treats.

My recent upgrade of Bear’s dining options stemmed from feeling pressured by fellow dog owners during a stroll as we compared our pets’ diets. I discovered one dog enjoyed fresh meals from a subscription service priced at £2-£3 daily, while another feasted on freeze-dried meals deemed ‘human-grade.’ Embarrassed, I hesitated to admit that Bear’s diet mainly consisted of kibble. I had barely recovered from forgetting his birthday, particularly when the new norm is to celebrate with a special dog cake.

Once looked down upon, dog food has emerged as a thriving market segment. In the UK, we currently spend around £2 billion on feeding our furry companions. Statistics reveal that pet food deliveries have more than doubled since 2018. It’s a bit embarrassing imagining our delivery person struggling to carry Bear’s gourmet raw meals to the door, all while being barked at by Bear.

Today, hotels have elevated expectations for four-legged guests, with home-baked treats and curated dog menus being standard features. Will Bear indulge in a puppuccino or enjoy a doggy afternoon tea, similar to what my other dog experienced at a luxury hotel with a menu including meatloaf and doggie canapés?

In London, the concept of pet dining has transformed dramatically. At venues like Love My Human Townhouse in Chelsea, dogs can choose from a special menu featuring chicken breast, pumpkin, and even dog doughnuts. Brindisa in Battersea offers dog tapas with options like arroz con pollo and huevos rotos con bacon. My dogs are particularly fond of Bellanger in Islington for their freshly baked biscuits while I enjoy L’Escargot in Soho, where I once treated a friend’s French bulldog to a meal served in a silver bowl at our table.

This trend of pampering pets isn’t confined to the capital. In Somerset, where Bear spends much of his time, even local cafés serve dog-friendly full English breakfasts at £3.25, providing such good value that I sometimes contemplate ordering one for myself. The Canteen café in Nailsworth, Gloucestershire, offers pupcakes, and Bear has enjoyed meals at Babington House, the countryside branch of Soho House.

Our travels together only amplify the furry indulgence. At Lucknam Park hotel in Wiltshire, we’ve been served sausages on a silver platter right in our room. During our stay at the prestigious Hotel de Toiras on Île de Ré in France, we even shared a lavish côte de boeuf worth £125.

I’ve observed that canine cuisine often mirrors the local food scene wherever we go. For instance, Bear savored dog-friendly macarons in France, while in Brighton, he munched on vegan broccoli treats. When we were in Montecito, California, I found him a plant-based rice-flour dog biscuit from a boutique.

Surprisingly, Bear isn’t particularly fussy. Yes, as a Labrador, food is his primary interest, but he also attempts to indulge in less appetizing options, such as something left on the street.

The rise of high-quality dog food seems to be a trend on the upswing. Currently, retailers like Ocado now offer over 800 varieties of dog food, including an indulgent muffin (dubbed a ‘woofin’) for £3.50. Celebrity chefs have even gotten involved, like Georgia Toffolo, whose brand ‘Wild Pack’ sells venison treats. Bella+Duke has introduced a wagyu beef meal, crafted from one of the most expensive cuts available. I sincerely hope Bear doesn’t catch wind of these luxurious options.

This burgeoning interest in canine dining may reflect our society’s obsession with clean eating, influenced by trends on social media. Tony Ottley, co-founder of Bella+Duke, observes that pet owners are increasingly opting for fresh and minimally processed ingredients for their animals. He believes this is part of a wider movement towards raw diets. It seems to resonate with a generation that is postponing parenthood, channeling their nurturing instincts towards their pets instead. I’ve started to wonder if this phenomenon is a response to societal shifts such as the increasing popularity of diets that prioritize aesthetics over enjoyment, leading us to live vicariously through our furry companions.