Raymond Blanc: ‘A chef once hit me in the face with a frying pan’

Raymond Blanc, 75, hailing from Besançon, France, is renowned as a pivotal figure in French cuisine while establishing his career in England. He arrived in the UK at age 22 to pursue a role as a waiter, and within five years, he opened his first restaurant, Les Quat’Saisons in Oxford. In 1984, he inaugurated Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons in Great Milton, which boasts two Michelin stars and was awarded a Michelin green star in 2020. Currently, he resides in Oxfordshire with his partner, Natalia Traxel, and has two sons, Olivier and Sebastien, from previous relationships.

Blanc reflects on his upbringing in a working-class family in postwar France, where the kitchen was the heart of their home. He attributes his strong work ethic to his father and credits his mother for instilling in him the belief that food symbolizes love. Growing everything in the garden emphasized the importance of seasonal cooking. A vital lesson from his mother was, “Raymond, you shall waste not!” These principles have been passed on to the chefs he has mentored throughout his career.

The chef has faced significant challenges in the restaurant industry. During his teenage years in Besançon, a heated incident occurred when a chef struck him in the face with a copper frying pan after he posed a question, resulting in a broken jaw and several lost teeth, which left him hospitalized and with diminished confidence.

Raymond Blanc

His struggle with Covid-19 nearly claimed his life. During a month and a half in the hospital at the pandemic’s onset, he witnessed seven patients around him succumb to the virus. When doctors suggested intubation, he implored them to let him fight it on his own terms. Upon his recovery, taking his first breath outside the hospital felt euphoric, akin to breathing in champagne.

Before launching his restaurant career, Blanc worked in various roles, including as a cleaner and a dishwasher. He opened his first restaurant during a particularly unfavorable economic period in Britain at just 27, with no prior experience and an old oven, but it was a moment of pure joy for him.

A particularly humbling experience came shortly after receiving his first Michelin star. Following his win at the Egon Ronay restaurant of the year award, Blanc was tasked with cooking for esteemed culinary figures like Pierre Koffmann and the Roux brothers. Despite working tirelessly through the night, the meal turned disastrous as his puff pastry failed and his turbot was undercooked, teaching him that meticulous planning is crucial.

The demands of running a restaurant have taken a toll on his family life, as he often missed quality time with his children, leading to two divorces and significant personal challenges.

Blanc has had the privilege to cook for the Queen Mother multiple times, characterizing her as a charming presence. She would often leave the dining table when bored with guests to express gratitude in the kitchen. One of his fondest memories is getting her to sing La Marseillaise with him during a dinner at Le Manoir, a moment he cherished.

With two Michelin stars to his name for 41 years, Blanc emphasizes that a chef’s success is heavily reliant on their team. He advocates for leading with empathy rather than authority, believing that nurturing talent and treating young chefs with respect fosters a more productive kitchen environment.

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Blanc acknowledges that his time in Britain has taught him humility and the importance of listening—skills that differ markedly from his French origins, where conversation tends to be more chaotic with everyone speaking simultaneously.

Throughout his career, he has trained 43 Michelin-starred chefs, teaching them the vital lesson of inquisitiveness—advocating for a mindset that remains open to discovery in the kitchen. He warns that losing passion for a dish, regardless of experience, can lead to its decline.

Blanc expresses concern over Britain’s detachment from food culture, noting a prevalence of ultraprocessed foods in the diet.

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